THE TOP 5 FASHION NEWS THAT SHAPED 2024

MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL SS24’S FASHION FILM

Promotional poster for Nighthawk 2024.

As a guide to what is now considered one of the best haute couture collections in history, on October 2nd Maison Margiela release the Nighthawk 2024 documentary about said collection, designed by John Galliano and shown to the public last January. The film, done with the utmost care and attention to detail, does an extensive exposition of the entire process that gave birth to this unforgettable show.

Close-up of Pat McGrath's make up for Maison Margiela Artisanal SS24 that emulated the texture of the faces of porcelain dolls.

Showing the creative process behind the collection step by step, from Galliano’s atelier where he speaks about the different influences that inspired him, along with the collaboration with Christian Louboutin on the shoes department and the legendary porcelain doll makeup made by Pat McGrath exclusively for this project, this movie is an absolute visual feast that transcends fashion and haute couture, elevating Galliano to the spheres of high art. With Nighthawk, it is now a fact that John Galliano is one of the greatest (if not the biggest) fashion creators, as well as the last real couturier standing in the big leagues of the industry.

Maison Margiela Artisanal SS24 Haute Couture.

FASHION KEEPS ON PLAYING MUSICAL CHAIRS

As mentioned in previous articles, this year there was a considerable rotation of talents in the creative director spots of the main fashion houses. Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Canada Goose, Clare Waight Keller at UNIQLO and Sarah Burton at Givenchy, just to name a few examples, show that there seems to be a certain resistance among fashion’s higher-ups to choose creatives that haven’t been previously approved by maisons in the same category.

One of the looks out of Uniqlo: C, Clare Waight Keller's first collaboration with Japanese fast fashion giant UNIQLO, which eventually led her to become their creative director.

This is completely understandable, as such a huge responsibility cannot be given to newbies, but it also goes to show that the most innovative talents and the freshest ideas cannot be found in highly mediatic spaces. Likewise, some of the new creators made the right choice by focusing on building their own universe, such as Peter Do, who quit the creative direction of Helmut Lang after a short-lived, yet very productive stunt at the brand.

Helmut Lang SS24, Peter Do's debut at the brand as their creative director.

It is necessary to give new talents the chance to become household names on their own terms, and that they do not always need validation from older brands to do so.

FOOD IS NOW THE ULTIMATE LUXURY

In 2024 most luxury conglomerates had falling profit margins: LVMH with -4.4%, Kering with -15%, Moncler with -3%, and Richemont only grew by 1%. These corporations have opted to offer new alternatives to consumers who want a different, and perhaps more affordable luxury experience: cafés and restaurants. Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Coach have all opened this type of spaces mostly in southeast Asia, Vivienne Westwood in China, Armani in Italy and Tiffany’s in New York City, all supervised by the main chefs of Michelin star restaurants, thus bringing luxury and sophistication to a multisensorial level.

The Blue Box, Tiffany and Co's café in New York City.

Of course, it is just natural to corporation the search and exploitation of any possible rentable opportunity, but this trend speaks of a deeper socioeconomical issue: the public’s priorities and preference are radically changing, and it now finds a better value and more luxury in an elite gastronomic experience than in a bag, a pair of shoes or a diamond necklace.

THE WIRKIN PHENOMENON

Aligning with new attitudes towards fashion and luxury, the latest controversy of this year for the industry was the release of an exact copy of Hermès’ Birkin bag by American supermarket chain Walmart during the holidays season in December. While the original can cost upwards of 10400 USD, the Wirkin (as it has been nicknamed on social media) costs from 78 to 120 USD depending on its size.

Walmart's dupe of Hermès' Birkin bag, known as the "Wirkin", is almost an exact copy of the original, and became a commercial and social media sensation during the last days of 2024.

Hermès was one of the very few companies that maintained and increased its profit margins this year, due in no small part to its positioning as an ultra-luxury brand. In order to buy a Birkin, the buyer must be on the brand’s frequent customers list after purchasing multiple highly priced items, and this bag is only offered to them once their fidelity to Hermés has been proven. It is, no doubt, a status symbol, and owning a Birkin bag is proof of having a very high purchasing power.

The Sac Bijou edition of the Hermès' Birkin Bag is the most expensive version of this item. It is made in crocodile skin, rose gold and diamonds, there are only 3 of them in the world, and it costs 2.000.000 USD.

However, with the Wirkin’s takeover, the luxury and exclusivity typically associated with Birkin bags might be threatened. Both Kamugo, Wirkin’s manufacturer, and its users stated that it has a good quality level in construction and materials. If the copy and the original are so similar, and now anyone can have access to a Wirkin bag, eventually Birkins will lose their symbolic power and will become just an overpriced accessory.

We still do not know if the existence of the Wirkin bag will affect the value of Birkin bags, therefore of Hermès, as this is their most coveted product. For now, it is not too farfetched to say that both the legal and PR teams of Hermès are probably working overtime to figure out how they will convince their audience that spending thousands of dollars on a Birkin bag is still a good investment.