THE BERLIN FASHION WEEK AW25 DIARIES – PART 2: DAY 3

Marlon Ferry, Unbroken AW25.

All images used in this article are a courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week's Media Hub.

DAY 3 - FEBRUARY 2ND

AVENIR

Avenir presented their autumn winter collection called Galleria at the Chateau Royal, one of the most emblematic hotels of the German capital. This was more colorful than usual for this season, but the abundance of different hues of blue in denim patches, light pink and bright red, mustard yellow, turquoise blue: an entire textile rainbow to fight the winter Blues in the northern hemisphere of the globe.

While most of the clothes seemed to be, perhaps, too light for winter, the styling decision of layering multiple garments for the final looks achieved the necessary balance between practicality, aesthetic appeal and adaptation to weather conditions. Avenir stood out for breaking the usual winter codes of using as little color as possible and the heaviest materials, which is even more of a pleasant surprise coming from a brand from Berlin.

CLARA COLETTE MIRAMON

This runway show, titled Maria hat geholfen (“Mary has helped” in Germany), Took place in the Church of Saint Thomas, an impressive gothic building with very high ceilings and mostly light interiors. The contrast of a religious stage mixed with the chaotic energy that it's so typical of fashion events, all paired with a techno soundtrack with a female voice singing “I don't need no church”, created one of the most memorable productions of this edition of BFW.

All the looks of this collection were feminine, sensual and bold, and the fact that they were presented at a catholic church made them look even more transgressive. Burgundy, black, silver and crimson red silk were used in dresses with different lengths and deep cleavages, metallic corsets, short bomber jackets and sheer white mesh tops with the title of this collection printed on the chest. There were no accessories along with the looks, except for patent leather stilettos and boots with fake fur details.

This brand mixed sensuality, femininity and transgression in an exquisite manner, somewhat dark and very typical of Berlin, making it one of the most interesting creators of this event.

GmbH

One of the most relevant German brands nowadays in the industry. The presentation of the winter 25 collection FROM ANOTHER REALITY took place in a completely white space, with no decoration except for curtains and chairs.

This set was mostly monochrome, with a strong emphasis on the elegance of traditional tailoring rebranded for contemporary sensibilities. Bands work either the skinny and very tight, or a bit looser as it's usually done on American tailoring techniques. Oversized wool and fake fur coats, crisp white shirts, tight sweaters and ties paired up with sheer veils that covered the faces and shoulders of many models for a melancholic, and simultaneously classic and elegant effect.

The short film projected during this presentation included a rare recording of Norwegian poet Gunvor Hofmo reading the poem that inspired the title of this collection, which explores loneliness, reality and the fear that it conveys. The decision of including this recording as intermission, as well as the show notes that mentioned the background of creative directors Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby as children of Turkish immigrants, pointed out that this work went beyond mere clothes to become a tribute to resilience, the importance of building one’s own identity even in the harshest circumstances, and the voices that oppose hate and division speeches.

MARLON FERRY

The German answer to French haute couture and Italian alta moda presented their latest collection Unbroken at the Bunker West club. The brutalist space fitted the brand's work, which was completely futuristic and gothic, but delicate and sensual as well.

Unbroken only had 11 looks for women. Each one of them had its own title, such as “Rebirth” for a gray organza and texturized polyester with a black latex corset, “The Widow” for an intricate 3D printed bioplastic corset with a red teardrop crystal on the chest and a black chiffon skirt, and “Illumination” for a white long-sleeved floor length dress set with a plastic head piece and corset, both also white and made with a 3D printer.

While this is only the brand's second show at BFW, Marlon Ferry’s ambition to become an option for high fashion on the same level as older brands is palpable. Their technical execution is impeccable, with the right use of 3D printing technologies applied to clothes making, and the details feel like a darker version of the intricacies that are a staple of this side of fashion. Without a doubt, this is one of the young brands that are not to be missed on the German fashion scene, and it has a very high chance to become an international reference in a not-so-distant future.