MY PFW RTW MENSWEAR SS2025 RECAP: UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS

Last week from June 18th to 23rd, 2024 the Spring Summer 2025 menswear fashion week was held in Paris. Because of time and effectivity constrains, it would be impossible to review all shows that occurred during the event, so this is a note about the brands that stood out to me the most: 032C, Bluemarble, WOOYOUNGMI and Kidill.

999, Kidill's SS25 Menswear collection. Images: Ko Tsuchiya.

KIDILL AND SOFT PUNK

Japanese cult brand Kidill presented their collection with two different, yet complimentary angles: typical punk studs, chains and plaid, and oversized silhouettes in light fabrics and pastel hues. Such contrast is a great example of Kidill’s trademark creative universe, where soft and hard aesthetics coexist and do not clash against each other. The best sample were the soft pink lace cardigans with black rock band logo patches in canvas that created a huge, yet harmonious, visual impact, and that contrasted perfectly with the black blazer with teddy bear shaped pink patches. This collection offered a visual universe that stood out among other brands in this fashion week, and serves as a forecast for soft punk as one of the biggest trends for years to come.

WOOYOUNGMI SS25. Images: Luca Tombolini.

WOOYOUNGMI’S DARK PREPPY

Unlike the typical streetwear oversized items that were everywhere this menswear week, WOOYOUNGMI showed a collection that, for the most part, had shorter, tighter silhouettes, such as silk baseball jackets, knee-cut pants and boarding school-inspired sweaters, along with a monochrome palette that included a few dark red streaks and paisley prints. Other outstanding garments were the bullfighter style pants with a high waist up until the chest, thin neckties and horseriding boots in black and white. This collection caught the attention of the public for not following the more casual shapes that are everywhere today, while keeping a fresh, updated look at the same time.

032C SS25. Images: Paolo Caponetto.

032C OR BERLIN’S URBAN CHIC 

German ready to wear brand 032C, which went from being a fashion magazine and PR agency in Berlin to become one of the most promising brands in the last few years, had its Parisian debut this year. While staying true to the now iconic aesthetics of the world capital of techno, most of the looks on this runway show were completely black or white, with a few exceptions made for camo green and light brown, and for some bright red print details. Leather, opaque and discreet textures and clean, minimalistic lines were predominant in this collection. All in all: a great debut for the German brand in the capital of fashion, which will most likely generate a lot of buzz in the coming fashion weeks.

Bluemarble's Crystal Clear SS25 collection. Images: Luca Tombolini.

BLUEMARBLE’S CONTEMPORARY STREETWEAR

French streetwear brand Bluemarble showed a reinterpretation of classic streetwear shapes with colors and textures beyond what is common on this segment of the industry. Classic cargo pants were made in light white fabrics with an abundance of sequins, and camo prints were shown in atypical tones such as neon yellow, bright purple and light brown. Not unlike Kidill, pastel pink was an important element in this collection, mainly in the shape of oversized button down shirts. Timeless trench coats in white, black and grey gave an additional layer of contrast, along with sukajan jackets and shirts in royal blue silk. Bluemarble’s innovative point of view on streetwear stood out among the rest by mixing classic and modern silhouettes in a totally unexpected way.