KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM TOKYO FASHION WEEK SS25: PART TWO

All images on this article are a courtesy of Rakuten Fashion Week.

O0U

Mitsuru Kondo (one of the many ex collaborators of Issey Miyake who went on to create their own companies after working with the legendary creator of Pleats Please) and his brand offered a womenswear concept between athleisure and resort, while using the oversized fits that contemporary Japanese fashion is widely known for.

The mix of black sheer materials with tracksuits in all shades of pink, along with more formal pieces such as deconstructed coats with dissimilar sleeves in contrasting textures and lengths, miniskirts based on parts of trench coats (that reminisced the Miu Miu SS23 micro miniskirt that was everywhere that season) and silk pants. The color palette was as diverse as the collection itself, with classic black and white, bronze red, butter yellow, ivory, light blue and all versions of pink.

mintdesigns

This was among the fully digital shows of this season’s Tokyo Fashion Week, with a slightly melancholic, romantic, delicate and feminine collection that was almost Victorian on its sensibilities. It contained many maxi dresses and similarly long skirts, some with embroidery and others with monochrome tie-dye details.

mintdesigns also showcased a high level of knowledge in the use of lace, light fabrics such as lint and cotton, and minimal accessorizing which allowed the clothes to fully have the spotlight of this presentation. There was an abundance of details in sheer black, white and grey fabrics, giving the collection the right amount of cool factor to fit contemporary trends, without losing its main nostalgic vibes.

HEôS

Shoma Akatsukigawa’s collection was different from others on this fashion week because of its stronger, more hitting spirit, with definite cyberpunk, dystopian vibes that aren’t very frequent on collections for the warmest seasons of the year.

With neon-hued psychedelic prints over sheer black, slightly military jackets and pants in black and sand yellow, laser cuts on wool coats and an abundance of layered looks, HEôS offered a rather apocalyptic view, instead of sunny and joyful. This isn’t a cherry blossom spring, this isn’t a beach summer: this is the heat of the Mad Max desert, the quest for survival after the end of the world. This is a cool, urban version of the day after tomorrow.