HIDDEN JEWELS: THE INDEPENDENT BRANDS THAT TOOK BERLIN FASHION WEEK SS25 BY STORM

Berlin held its SS25 fashion week from July 1st to 4th, 2024. Very much in tune with the iconic rebellious spirit of the world capital of techno, the brands that showcased their latest collections during this event were all independent and sustainable, with strong influences of alternative subcultural aesthetics and a remarkable presence of models who challenged the usual beauty standards of the fashion industry. Out of all the shows held during this week, the ones that stood out to me the most were Rianna + Nina, Haderlump, Maximilian Gedra and Claudia Skoda.

Folklore, Rianna + Nina SS25 runway show. Images: Alexander Fischer.

Rianna + Nina, the design duo formed by Rianna Koubou and Nina Knaudt, presented their very kitsch latest collection called Folklore with a show that took place at the Greek Embassy of the German capital, where dancers replaced traditional models and walked accompanied by a soundtrack made of some of the most famous Greek folk songs. This brand, which is among the winners of the Berlin Contemporary Design program, showed dressed made with traditional Mediterranean tablecloth and prints in silhouettes updated to fit contemporary sensibilities, and added accessories that have always been worn by Greek women such as headscarves and oversized beaded earrings and necklaces. The completely sustainable collection smashed the stereotypes of all black Berlin fashion, proving once again the infinite variety of aesthetics coexisting in the city.

AERO, Haderlump SS 2025 runway show. Images: Andrew Thomas.

Haderlump, another brand in the Berlin Contemporary program and that is directed by Julius Weissenborn and Johann Ehrhardt, has a completely urban and utilitarian concept, showcased during the presentation of the collection AERO at the Hangar 6 of the Templehof airport. This collection was inspired by American pilot Amelia Earhart, and included bomber jackets, trench coats and pants made in recycled fabrics and leather from used parachutes, and several volume-contrasted outfits with tighter upper garments and looser, comfy silhouettes for the bottom area. The colors in the palette of AERO were predominantly classic black and white, with some elements in baby blue denim and light brown leather. Iconic 20th century aviator accessories such as printed scarves tied to the neck, sunglasses and leather caps were the perfect final touch for the contemporary looks of this runway show, which was undoubtedly one of the best of this fashion week.

Maximilian Gedra SS 2025 runway show. Images: Andrew Thomas.

On the other hand, one of the most maximalist collections of this event was thar of Maximilian Gedra, who stated that his is not just a clothing brand, but an entire creative universe were gender barriers are blurred and classic design shapes are pushed to new limits while keeping their original elegance. This brand’s new collection, which was entirely made in black and white, presented experimental designs via conventional trench coats and sleeveless dresses modified with extremely oversized shoulder pads, along with molten latex headpieces and mouthpieces that resembled savage animal fangs or the antennas of a locust. Fabrics like synthetic furs and black leather were heavily used in this collection, resulting in an aesthetic universe that could perfectly fit in with dystopian films such as The Fifth Element or The Hunger Games.

Claudia Skoda SS 2025 runway show. Images: Finnegan Koichi Godenschweger.

Last but not least, Claudia Skoda, one of the most prominent figures in the underground scene of Berlin since the 70s, presented her latest collection during the Intervention Showcase held at the Tempodrom. The brand showed a series of knitwear made in lurex, merino wool and elastane with the now trademarked Skoda quality, who has dedicated her career in fashion to experimenting and creating new knitting techniques in unexpected materials. In this collection there were classic, wearable summer silhouettes with blue and white geometric patterns that contrasted with muted hues such as dark grey and ivory, as well as some unexpected sheer pieces that were a pleasant surprise in the runway. A definitive proof of Skoda’s talent and mastery of knitting techniques that was, in my opinion, one of the best of the entire fashion week and a confirmation that her legendary reputation in the independent fashion and art scene in Berlin is very well deserved.

As a whole, the fashion week of Germany’s capital is one the most innovative and interesting in the industry when it comes to the high quality and variety of the participating brands and collections, which serve as well as a perfect reflection of the creative, multicultural spirit that define Berlin’s spirit.