A NEW CROSS TAKES OVER COLOMBIAMODA: FASHION AS A SOCIAL CATALYST

All images in this article are courtesy of Inexmoda.

Can fashion tell stories of only glamour and glitz? Is it possible to use fashion as a way to narrate historical processes through the clothes we wear? Is there a space in fashion industry for stories beyond what is strictly material?

The opening event of Colombiamoda 2024, masterfully executed by Bogotá brand A NEW CROSS with their latest collection “PROCESO” (“process” in Spanish) presented a new use and meaning of fashion that goes beyond mere aesthetics. Designer and multidisciplinary artist Nicolás Rivero’s brand had their first runway show in two years with this event. A NEW CROSS is very intentional in everything they do: sourcing artisanal Colombian fabrics, working with experienced local tailors, deconstructed designs and a genderless aesthetic universe. A NEW CROSS doesn’t make menswear or womenswear: they create garments for people who is looking for fashion with meaning, who understand the value of handmade art for both the maker and the user.

“Proceso”’s show took place on the night of July 22, 2024 at a former tobacco factory. The industrial of the venue created a perfect set with the show’s soundtrack, a mix of potent and dystopian sounds that evoked the current tension of contemporary world, and intermittent white illumination. Models, as diverse as Colombia itself, walked down the stage wearing the pieces that the brand has created during the past two years: oversized pants, shirts, and blouses in non-conventional cuts either long sleeved, sleeveless or with only one sleeve, ponchos down to the knee, coats made with different coats that looked like squared patterns, all styled with simple black leather loafers. The color scheme of this collection was mostly black and raw white, with some terracotta and fire red.

Though at first glance, some might consider this collection as simple and minimalistic, the attention to detail and exquisite quality of final touches on the pieces indicate a high level of complexity in what A NEW CROSS proposed. Many of the garments included embroidery and stitches that resembled Colombian traditional art made in fique fiber, along with fabric appliqués in the same hue as the clothes. This wasn’t just fashion for the sake of fashion. This was intentional, wearable art that reflected a society thriving against all odds and in spite of itself.

The pinnacle moment of the show was the usual walk of all the models together at the end, but, as everything this brand does, it had a different key component to it: they walked down the runway full speed on zigzag and suddenly stopped, simultaneously with the music that switched from a heavy industrial load to the soothing sounds of falling rain. A metaphor of stillness after chaos.

Giving their due recognition to the labor of all craftsmen and women involved in the production of this brand, Nicolás Rivero brought out his tailors to receive the public’s ovation along with him at the end of the show. This gratitude gesture to all the hands that worked making these clothes was a perfect final touch of a fashion brand that is known for their sustainability and their recognition of the importance of manual work.

A concept like that of A NEW CROSS, along with the production of this last show, does not fit into what can usually be seen on Colombian fashion industry. This is exactly why this type of brands has to be more supported and well-known: variety and diversity are our strength as a country.